The Queen’s City – Introducing Regina

Regina – named in honour of the monarchs and nicknamed the Queen’s City, and I met each other late in the afternoon… the skyline was definitely noteworthy amongst the flat backdrop, with its mix of heritage, modern, and your typical mid 50s-60s architecture. Though approximately the same size as Saskatoon, Regina has a totally different look and feel. Mind you, the population and housing boom has also found its place here… some property values have gone up as much as 50K in six months! Interestingly, I find myself liking both equally.

Regina is not home to a large river, but rather, to a man made reservoir, Wascana Lake. The lake is massive and many a festival, the Legislative Assembly, the Science Centre, the Royal Saskatchewan Museum, and local marinas can be found on its shores. My B & B, the Dragon’s Nest, is just down the road from the lake in the historic Cathedral neighbourhood. My hosts, Rick & Denise are just amazing- pick-up/drop-off, a wealth of tips and ideas, and Rick’s breakfasts promise to be nothing but great… I have really lucked out!! That or have remarkable B & B selection skills… I am siding with luck. All of the rooms here are designed using the principles of Feng Shui and it is clear a lot of effort has gone into amassing the funky decor. Even as they finish an addition of a 3rd floor (normally renovations are a plague to guests/tourists… not here!), the Dragon’s Nest will serve as a most comfortable retreat.

I wrestled up some grub – a personal favourite and treat of Chicken Fingers and Fries – at a local family restaurant before hitting the road for a tour of the area. I discovered that football is KING of the summer sports world here in Regina, and perhaps even Saskatchewan. People love it! Everywhere I went, it was either on TV (even games where Sask. was not playing) or people were talking about their beloved Rough Riders. “This year is the year for the CUP!”… I was sad to discover that a game wasn’t scheduled until after my departure! Would have been fun…:).

I also noted in my wanderings downtown that much of Regina’s under 30 population can be attributed to the University of Regina or the RCMP – the RCMP academy is based here. I found myself pondering how the ‘Alberta Surge’ might effect the demographics of the city… but with both institutions having deep roots, it doesn’t look like they are going anywhere.

After my tour de la ville, I retired for the night. Tomorrow is Canada Day… I have read (Rick confirmed) that there is a large festival down by Wascana Lake. Rick also told me that the fireworks are done by a “guy who really know what he is doing!”. Sounds okay by me… am excited to check it all out!

No ‘Duding’ For Me :(.

This just in…:).

I got a phone call from my guest ranch in Lumsden… I guess there has been a family emergency and as such my reservation had to be cancelled. So no ‘duding’ it up for me… I will have to build in a guest ranch and/or horseback riding somewhere else. I have decided to tack on an extra night in Moose Jaw in lieu for now – it has been named one of Canada’s Cultural Capitals for 2007, don’t you know!

Jazz on the Saskatchewan… Good Times in Saskatoon!

Leg 2 on the Canadian Highlight Reel: Sunset on the Prairies, ‘Dinner’ in the coffee shop with a guy from Switzerland on the last leg of a WORLD tour, and discovering that ‘Coach’ on the Canadian is well not what you would find in ‘Coach’ on an airplane… your chair even reclines and has a foot rest (think Laz-y Boy). I didn’t spy shower facilities… so not sure how things look/smell upon arrival in TO … I will let you know. All in all, a very nice ride… even if the train was a little late (2.5 hrs… I am beginning to wonder if publishing a schedule is even in VIA’s best interest). I snapped a few pics and will post ‘em up soon.

I could tell that VIA was not exactly seeing Saskatchewan as a popular tourist destination (upon visiting Saskatoon, I will be writing VIA to tell them otherwise!!!) as you arrive after midnight (or 2:30 should the train happen to be late) and the station is a good 15-20 minute drive outside of town. A little sleepy… I called a cab and made my way to my motel. My cab driver turned out to be a ‘zealous Christian on Wheels’. He asked me if I considered my travels to be a testament to Jesus’ love for me or if I had considered a travelling ministry. I was a little dosy… but I said that, in some ways, my travels are a personal journey in search of connecting with the national identity, my own person, and various adventures/characters along the way… I also mentioned that it is more of a testament of parental love than say, Jesus’ – but I would by no means equate it to 40 days and nights in the desert or a religious crusade to spread the good news…;).   This was met with a round about explaination of how my parents were a personification of Jesus’ love… I nodded and said that I felt very lucky to be able to do what I was doing, to have parents like mine, and that someone (whether it be my parents, God, or a giant turtle) was smiling down on me…;).  A little disappointed upon our arrival at the Best Western , he handed me a few brochures on how I could be ’saved’ and bid me good journey. I chuckled… and went to bed.

Checking out 7 hours later, I dropped my bags at the Bus Depot and started out on a tour of Saskatoon!

The city population is over 200,000 and is on the rise! Saskatoon has long since been hailed as the only locale in the province to boast a +ve population. There has been a recent surge in population and property values that can be attributed to one thing… Alberta! With the oil boom making things a little on the pricey side combined with an aggresive – and clearly effective – media campaign about the ‘land of opportunity’ that is Saskatchewan, a huge number of Albertans are making a run for the border. In the last six months, the housing market has grown tremendously – there are tales of people knocking on doors (to see if the house is for sale) and paying upwards of 160K above the asking price! Concerns are also rampid during this boom… will there be enough affordable housing? are the Albertans bringing social welfare problems with them ( in their suitcases…;))? What happens if (or really, when) the oil market bottoms out? Interesting questions, which of course are making for interesting times! For a long time, it was “How do we keep people from moving from Saskatchewan?”, now it’s “How do we control the surge?” or for some “How do we keep the Albertans out?”.

I wandered down by the South Saskatchewan River, which, like all good towns, runs through the historical centre of the city. On one bank is a beautiful series of parks and walking trails… on the other, the University of Saskatchewan and many a posh home. I meandered the paths along the River and took in some of the sights including the Bessbourough Hotel (CPR Hotel) which was featured on Creepy Canada for the ghosts that grace its halls, St. John’s Cathedral – 2nd tallest steeple in W. Canada, and the Ukrainian Museum of Canada. I also took a river boat tour and went to the Art Gallery (the boat leaves from the dock behind the gallery, in case you were wondering how the two were related!).

Darryl, one of the owner/hosts of the Ninth Street B & B, met me at the bus station and took me to my oasis in the city. Set in one of Saskatoon’s oldest neighbourhoods, the Ninth St. B & B was just what my weary head was asking for. A large room with a comfy bed and a private bath… both with a ton of character! After a res room and a Best Western – all be them good places in their own right- it was nice to see non-neutral colours…;). After checking in, Darryl pointed me in the direction of Broadway – an eclectic neighbourhood with cool little shops, cafes, eateries and a literary/arts scene that gives the area a great vibe! I discovered that their is quite the literary community in Saskatoon – apparently many are in the process of writing the great Canadian novel in their basements!

After a bite and a stroll, I made my way back downtown to check out the Sask. Jazz Festival! The festival itself is province-wide, with venues predominately in Saskatoon and Regina, and attracts performers from across Canada. I think I mentioned before that outdoor festivals are well, just plain cool! I really enjoyed the music and beautiful summer weather… bed time came early (I had been up until 3:00 a.m. the night before…;)) and sweet sweet slumber was most welcomed.

Breakfast at the Ninth Street B & B was most enjoyable – homemade granola, fresh fruit, a scone, and juice. There were hot options, but, to be honest, I was good with the cold. Darryl and the other guest, Barb from B.C. as she was introduced, were tremendous company. We talked about all things Saskatoon – people. cultural vibrancy, insurgence of Albertans, debated the Canadian identity, and exchanged tales of the travel and writing kind.  I continue to be fascinated by the experience of others in the places I am visiting, the ’stories’ of other travellers, and really enjoy hearing a ‘local’ perspective whenever possible. We talked for hours… which left just a little bit of time to get in some last minute seeing before boarding the bus to Regina!

Tales from the Dude Ranch and Provincial Capital on Canada Day to come…:).

Photos Galore!

Yes, it’s true! I have uploaded and labeled 5 new albums – 200+ pictures – for viewage. These shots are of Vancouver, Alaska, Whistler, Leg I on board the Canadian, and Yellowknife. The link (Photos from my Travels) can be found on the right hand side of the main blog page. Hope you enjoy them!

P.S. I corrected the glaring grammatical errors and rectified the extreme over use of the word ‘definitely’ in the Yellowknife post.  I apologize for inflicting that literary disaster upon you.  I must have been suffering from some sort of ‘Midnight Sun Stroke’.  For those who haven’t read it yet, consider yourselves lucky and enjoy the ‘revised’ version!!

More to it than JUST a Mall – Edmonton

My plane from Yellowknife landed around 8:00 p.m and I made my way on the Sky Shuttle to the University of Alberta – Lister Centre, which would be my home for the next 3 nights. As I had flown First Air, dinner was covered (a tasty northern fav – Bison Stew), so on my arrival I could just focus on settling in, getting caught up on all things electronic (e-mail, etc.), reading, and bed. My first sight in Edmonton was one I had not seen in 4 days – a sunset.

The greater Edmonton area now has 1M+ citizens who call it home. Though it is the capital city, many view Calgary as the more progressive/cosmopolitan centre of modern day Alberta. I was often asked by locals, and Albertans in general for that matter, if I was also planning on going/or had been to Calgary. As if to suggest that I would be selling myself short if I was not planning on or hadn’t yet been to the ‘cooler sister’ to the South. In my time here, I discovered that Edmonton should really ‘buck up’ and realize that it doesn’t have anything to be ashamed of. There is quite a lot to this old fort trading post, and it isn’t just about the mall!!

The North Saskatchewan River runs through the Centre of town… this provides for a lot of green space along the water and pretty views from the many bridges that link Edmonton’s North to its South. Laid out in a grid of Avenues and Streets, Edmonton is supposedly easy to navigate. I always got turned around, but that is in large part due to coming from places where landmarks/geographical features played a far more prominent role in determining the direction one is going (e.g. the lake is North). I learned quickly that maps would would be critical to navigational success as I left the mountains behind for the prairies.

Schafer Hall (part of the Lister Centre) served as quite comfortable accomodations – though sparsely decorated (I didn’t really care, just don’t want to give the impression that masterpieces grace the walls of your room or anything), I had everything I needed/wanted: a bed, a desk, internet access, plenty of outlets (to re-charge my computer, phone, etc.), plenty of storage space, my own washroom (nice!), and a window.

After a morning of laundry, it was time to hit Whyte Avenue/Old Strathcona – one of Edmonton’s heritage neighbourhoods – for some window shopping and a bite to eat. Funky shops, restaurants, and cafes line the district that many locals put at the top of their list of favourite places in town. I enjoyed the better part of the afternoon just wandering about…

I also took some time to explore the U of A’s massive campus. Scheduled to celebrate its centenary in 2008, the regional epicentre of education (the largest of Alberta’s four major universities) is a collection of heritage buildings, examples of late 70s/80s ‘good ideas’ (think of the Butter Dome – a golden rod coloured building constructed with steel/aluminum bricks that resemble pads of butter), and ultra modern structures which represent a commitment to ’state of the art’ facilities for the ‘future of Alberta’. Its buildings are by no means all this University has to offer, it is a top notch school known for being the launching ground of many distinguished Canadians – including Richard E. Taylor, Paul Gross, Joe Clark, W.O. Mitchell, Beverley McLachlin, and Robert Kroetsch.

While in Edmonton, there were two festivals going on – Jazz and The Works (an art festival) – and one just getting underway as I left (Shakespeare Festival). It is easy to see how Edmonton developed its reputation at the “Festival City”. I was sure to check out both! There is just something about outdoor music festivals! I am not sure if it is just embracing our short summers or what… but they are most enjoyable. ‘Art in the Park’ type festivals also usually bode well for me. The Works was no exception. I really took to interacting with the artists – getting a feel for their work and their person. Good times and great ways to spend an evening.

I also was sure to take a tour of the Legislative Assembly (I am endeavouring to see them all). Alberta’s Assembly is steeped in tradition. Sculptures and paintings of distinguished Albertans and portraits of former Premiers/Lieutenant Governors line the marble halls. Though, this historical landmark is not without its quirks. For example, the first mace used in the Legislative Assembly (and up until 50 years ago) was a rush job – the powers that be had overlooked the need for one; I should note that the mace represents the Head of State/Monarch and the powers bestowed upon the legislature in forming a government in their name. Without it, the legislature cannot… well… govern! It was made from cheap household items (e.g. pipes, teeth of a saw, a toilet float, etc.) that were re-fashioned to look ‘distinguished’. The Legislative Assembly is also home to an engineering/physics phenomenon known as the ‘magic spot’. This spot is many stories up and out of alignment with the fountain below, yet when you stand on it, the sounds of running water are as audible and clear as if you were standing next to the fountain. Kind of cool! See, there is more to these places than just stodgy old politicians…;). Though, I will show my inner geekdom and admit that hearing about them was interesting too!

And yes, I did go to the ‘famed’ West Edmonton Mall. Ice rink, Water Park/Wave Pool (complete with cock roaches according to an entomological source), 3 Arcades, an Amusement Park (with Roller Coasters!), a Pirate Show, Theme Hotel, Sea Caverns/Sea Animal Displays (there are even Flamingos that live here), two movieplexes, and dozens of restaurants… throw in a couple hundred stores and you’ve got it all! It is something to see… and if it wasn’t just me, I may have been able to spend more than an hour or so there. One thing that West Edmonton Mall did highlight, was that like its sister to the South, Edmonton is experiencing a labour shortage. Help wanted signs were hanging in almost every store with words like “Urgently Needed” and “Walk-In Interviews” on them. The situation was the same downtown – and starting wages were in the $10 – 16 range. Not bad for the front line service sector, but you also have to factor in a much higher cost of living, in particular housing.

Edmonton did indeed prove itself to be quite an interesting city and a worthwhile stop on my Cross Canada Travels. Next on the itinerary is a 2nd ride aboard the Canadian. This time I will go from Edmonton to Saskatoon – Prairie Towns here I come!!

Midnight Sun – Yellowknife!

Whisked from my bed all too early, I made my way to Edmonton International Airport to catch my plane to Yellowknife. I was issued my boarding card and when asked where I would like to sit, I was surprised to learn that though the plane is a 737 Jet Series aircraft (which holds upwards of 200+ passengers) there were only spaces for 76 passengers on board.

Curious, I asked the agent, how do these northern routes survive? The rest of the plane my friends is used to transport bush pilots and cargo! And the further North you go, this convenient moveable barrier keeps sliding on back to make room for even more cargo!! Plane is the fastest way to get things – and in some cases the only way -  to the North.   Let’s just say the business of combining cargo transport with passenger service is ingenious and little but continued growth is expected in the coming months (there are now three major airlines with service to Yellowknife) .

The flight was great… FIRST AIR provides outstanding service complete with hot towels and a meal! This type of service is usually only found on flights to Europe or in First Class. Quite impressive and reasonably priced (cheaper than Air Canada)!

Upon touch down in Yellowknife, the first thing you notice is that the trees are stunted. They are fully grown, but are much shorter than the trees you would find down south… think large Christmas tree or an apple tree. The landscape is quite rocky and sprawling. The wildflowers were out and blanketed areas of the town.  I was actually surprised at the amount of grass… For some reason, I thought there would be very little.

Yellowknife, a city of 18,000, is split into two distinct ‘parts’ – Old Town and New Town. New Town (the main downtown core) has a skyline – many of its buildings are 10+ stories tall.  One thing you notice right away is that everything is either concrete or aluminum sided (to weather the winters). Some call it ho-hum, I call it the tell tale sign of a Northern town. It is also clear that the distance between Northern centres and ’southern’ Canada is seemingly not as great as it once was. A & W, Shopper’s Drugmart, KFC, Boston Pizza, a movie theatre, nearly all of the major banks, and the YK shopping centre found on New Town’s major thoroughfares all bare witness to this ‘narrowing’ between North and South.

Old Town is down the hill a ways from New Town and is definitely a little more unique in its architecture. With colourfull buildings, older log cabins, floatplane bases, and the like, you definitely get the sense that you are not in ‘Kansas’ (or southern Ontario in my case) anymore.

Two Lakes are found within Yellowknife’s core… Frame Lake, in New Town, and Great Slave Lake (by far more well known and is about 100X the size), in Old Town. These lakes are full of fish and home to a plethora of other wildlife. Yellowknife, once settled for its gold and furs, is now known for its new gemstone friend, diamonds. Diamonds are of tremendous interest and value to the region, and perhaps can best explain the influx of new residents in the NWT (particularly in YK).

My B & B, Embleton House, is in New Town. With 4 private suites and one shared three bedroom apartment (where I stayed), Embleton House is a great little place to plunk yourself down and stay a while. In business since 1999, Faith and Ken have thought of everything from your own personal bath mat (replaced daily) for the bathroom to attaching a card with their address and cell phone # to your key in case you get lost – I didn’t need to use it, but nice to have just in case.  Faith stalks the fridges of each suite and the apartment with breakfast items so you can dine at your leisure. Though some travellers may prefer a prepared breakfast, others like myself and many Embleton House guests, do enjoy the flexibility should they want to get an early start or sleep in a little.

One fellow apartment dweller was from Vancouver and working at the diamond mine on a co-op term – he will be living up here for 8 months. The other was a graduate student, up for the month to conduct research on mining impact agreements, from Guelph, ON.  Nice to have some folks around who have been  in the area for a while (they know the ins and outs) and to be honest, close to my own age. I enjoyed chatting and hanging out with them – one night even involved a trip to Boston Pizza for drinks and pool. Quite familiar at first… until you walked outside at 11:00 p.m. and discovered it looked like it was 4:00 or 5:00 in the afternoon.

Apparently, the sun does set… but you would have to stay up until about 4:00 a.m. to see it, and even then, it is just for an instant. The long days of summer are nature’s compensation for the VERY short days of winter. I was in town during the Summer Solstice (the longest day of the year) and wow, it was a strange sensation. I was feeling much more nocturnal than usual.

The highlight of my time in Yellowknife was taking part in National Aboriginal Day Celebrations/Solstice Festival. The sights and sounds of the festival were definitely ones to behold. The atmosphere was electric… and with a focus on openess and education. Rather than just feeling like an outsider looking in, I was made to feel like a welcomed participant in the celebration. There was food (I discovered the perfect French Fry, and there was something fun about having a snow cone on the first day of Summer in Yellowknife), dancing, music, booths, and even the CBC was there. The performers were amazing… such passion, dances which meshed together traditional and contemporary forms, and music. Ah, the music – the beating of drums (thinking about it gives me chills) and voices that sang out in celebration, pride, remembrance, sorrow, and joy. I was most touched by Laura Vinson and Free Spirit. Amazing! I bought the CD at a local shop the next day… too bad it doesn’t come complete with the dancers that performed as they played… Check out “The Spirit Sings” track from their CD, Point of the Arrow, if you get the chance.

A close second was enjoying White Fish at Bullocks Bistro. Definitely a treat! This little place has been in business for years and is well known for its service – let’s just say that everyone there marches to the beat of their own drummer. You fetch your own beverage, wait as long as it takes for your food to be cooked (budget at least an hour wait), you might get a bun/you might not, and the prices, as the sign states, “fluctuate based on customer attitudes”. Everyone also writes on the wall, ceiling, tables… anywhere there is white space. All quite entertaining, and, perhaps the reason why it is so full, the food is delcious! I fell in love with its quirkiness and laissez faire attitude ( I had a good book)… I’d go back in a heartbeat. Though I also overheard others who would not..;).

I also spent time at the Prince of Whales Northern Heritage Centre.  There centre has many interesting exhibits including one on the Sewing Project taken on by G’wichin women in the late 90s. The exhibit details how the women researched and re-learned skills used in making traditional dress made from cariboo hides and adorned with dyed porcupine quills. Fascinating to hear their stories, see the fruits of their labour, and learn about the importance of preserving crafts/traditions from generation to generation.

I followed up my visit to the PWNHC with a tour of the Legislative Assembly or the ‘Lege’ as it is affectionately known to YKers. The ‘Lege’ was built in 1993 and was the first permanent home of the Assembly. For decades, the territorial government had opened sessions in the communities of the NWT and was nomadic, so to speak. Although the Assembly does still conduct consultations and some business outside of Yellowknife, it was seen as prudent to establish a permanent administrative home as the population in the NWT and in particular Yellowknife continued to grow.

The building has a large dome like structure, meant to look like an Igloo, and juts out towards the waters of the lake. Government in the NWT functions under a consensus style of government… which means there are no political parties. People are elected on their person and suitability to represent their constituents. The Premier is ‘elected’ ,along with the Speaker, once the Assembly is in session. There are 19 MLAs – the amount of representation for each of the communities is determined by population. The NWT has 11 official languages. Simultaneous translation used to occurr in all 11, but this proved too costly… and now translation is only available upon request. To give you an idea of the complexity of this sort of undertaking, the United Nations only provides translation into 6 languages. The ‘Lege’ is more contemporary in design than its counterparts across the country, but its architectural features and halls with special gifts from the provinces/territories and Britain fill the building with symbolism and tradition.

Perhaps one of the most unique features is the Speaker’s Mace. It is covered with diamonds of course… but what makes it distinct is not its look so much as its sound. The mace is filled with 33 pebbles (representing the communities of the NWT). So, as the Sargent at Arms moves, the mace makes a sound much like that of a rain stick. I thought it was cool anyway!

I spent an afternoon poking around Old Town, climbing to the top of Pilot’s Monument (which commerates the Bush Pilots of the region), and looking in the galleries/shops. In addition to Bullock’s Bistro, Old Town is home to another dining landmark, the Wildcat Cafe. There is a repro of this old Bush Pilot favourite, which is now operated by a different chef every summer, in the Canadian Museum of Civilization (Hull/Gatineau, QB). So, I had to cap off my visit with a stop to snap some pics of the real deal!

Uber long post I know… but there was so much to Yellowknife. I really enjoyed my 3 days there immensely and have vowed to return to the NWT. One last thing… I discovered really great Sushi and a salad with strawberries, blue cheese, pine nuts, maple smoked bacon, cucs, and tomatoes that was to die for! In Yellowknife… who knew?!? Just goes to show how many pleasant surprises I had in the land of the Midnight Sun!

Now back in Edmonton for a few days (I was only here for to sleep the first time) until the 27th… Consider yourself up-to-date on all of my adventures thus far…;). With less spotty internet access in the coming days, I should be able to update more frequently. ‘Til then – hope all is well!

Rails to the Rockies!

A relaxed morning in Whistler… I had breakfast with a mother and son travelling team from Germany (Berlin). We had yogurt with granola, homemade french toast with pineapple & pear sauce, and orange juice… in a word, yum! Conversation was interesting as we had covered a lot of similar territory in BC. Also chatted with Bill, Ann’s dad who was visiting from Ontario of all places. He has been all over the world and through much of Canada and Alaska as well. Always neat to get the impressions of other travellers who have journeyed through the same places. Good way to start the day too!

Back on the Sea to Sky highway to the rail/bus station in Vancouver. Very convenient that they are one in the same! I had a few hours to kill before my train boarded, so, after checking my bags, I headed up to Robson street. Robson is Vancouver’s answer to the Champs Elysees, Fifth Avenue, Oxford Circus, Yorkville, etc… lots of designer shops/boutiques, chain stores, restaurants, etc. Fun to poke around and see the latest in Vancouver fashions… I also hit the bookstore (much more my style…;)) for a few magazines – sadly no Harpers… anyone know where I can find it?!?… but thankfully they had my old time favourite, Macleans – to read in the comfort of my berth.

After my wanderings, I headed to the platform…

Now, some of you will know that I have been talking about wanting to take the train across Canada, in particular through the Rockies, for years! And before talking about it, I had been quietly dreaming of it long before that. So, to actually be doing it… well, it was somewhat hard to believe! I, as a berth passenger, was in Silver and Blue Class. Chi Chi…;). Basically, you get your bed, meals, and access to a dome care for Silver & Blue passengers (I guess the reduced numbers are of the biggest benefit in the high season – July & August). It is quite a nice way to travel… even though I was travelling on Rail Pass and paid the minimum sleeper cost, I was welcomed into the Silver & Blue Lounge with open arms. Lemonade, treats, and live music on the platform. VIA knows that this is its premiere route, and definitely goes all out. All told, made it quite special!

The all aboard signal sounded and it was time to board the Canadian. Sarah, my car attendant, greeted me with a smile, mentioned that it looked like I travelled a lot (I guess I have this boarding/packing/answering queries and giving directions down to a science…;)), and gave me the low down on the features of the train. I would be part of the 2nd call for dinner and was asked to use the Dome car 4 cars back until we arrived in Jasper. The one close to our car was reserved for a tour… they acted as if this was some HUGE inconvenience. I chuckled and said that the fact that I had ACCESS to a dome car at all (I should note that I will still have one when I travel sans sleeper/berth as well… just more people vying for a seat, but who cares!) was just fine.

My berth turned out to be a roomette of sorts (yay low season upgrades, or perhaps it was all that inconvenience of walking four cars..;)) with a door and all. It was by no means huge… about 27 square feet, but proved to be very comfortable and with a large picture window, one couldn’t beat the decor that was passing by. By day, there is a seat and what looked like a cushioned ottoman in front of it. That my friends turned out to be the toilet. By night, the bed folds out from the wall and ‘conceals’ the toilet. Tip => go to the washroom before putting the bed down…;). A small sink, mirror, fresh towels, and a shower kit complete the package. I liked my little space a lot…

The rails are older, so the train moves a lot more than you might expect. I had the reminents of sea legs and was quite glad of it. Though, when seated, you didn’t really feel much. I made my way through the narrow hallways graced with plaques that tell you a little piece of Canadian history – each car is named after a famous Canadian or region – to the dome car. This car is quite neat with three lounges – the mural lounge where they show movies at night, host activities, and have snacks/fruit for you to munch on, the bullet lounge with spacious wrap around seats, and the observation deck (this is where the famed dome resides). The view from up top is 180+ degrees and lends itself quite well to all the scenery that awaited us. Jeremy, our activity coordinator, was on hand to add colour commentary on what we were seeing and the history of the area we were in. VIA even goes as far to host a welcome aboard reception and put fresh flowers in this car! Days of old world travel for sure…

As get got underway, I felt like I was 10 again, filled with wonder, awe, and excitement. Leaving the coastline behind, we began our trek up and over the Coastal Mountains and east towards the Rockies. It didn’t feel like long (though it was two hours) before it was time to go for dinner. Okay, so we all know not to expect much from travel food. But let me just say, the meals on the train were of superior restaurant quality. Flavourful, juicy, tender… thinking about them makes my mouth water. What the chefs can produce in a small galley is truly remarkable! There are usually at least four or five choices AND… you got to enjoy each of the three courses (four if you wanted soup) while staring out the window… Nice views indeed!

My dinner companion was another solo traveller who had just been out to visit his daughter in Vancouver and lived in Kamloops. Turns out he drives train for VIA… so provided expert commentary and could pin point our exact location as we motored along for the next two hours. After dinner, I read a magazine and relaxed with feet stretched out on my ‘ottoman’. Bed came down not too long after, very comfortable, and I let the rails rock me (or if there had been more space throw me out of bed…;)) to sleep.

The train ride to Edmonton normally takes about 24 hours. In my case it would take 30 (some sort of rail trouble outside of Kamloops)… but that just meant more time to take it all in. I have learned from quite a bit of short haul rail riding in Canada and through Britain that one does not schedule connections according to the train schedule. A good philosophy is you get there when you get there. I let people know that I will be there circa a certain time…;).

Breakfast was had while we traversed the foothills of the Rockies. My companion this time was Rose, who had travelled on the train from Vancouver as far as Winnipeg at least once a month since 1997. This time she was bound for Halifax to visit her daughter who was studying out there. Rose and I exchanged travel tales… and I got hear about her family, coming to Canada, and adventures. Rose has had a very full and colourful life… it was great to have the chance to hear about and be a part of it, even if just for a little while. We headed to the dome car as we were getting ready for the main show…

SPECTACULAR… lakes/rivers only the train seas, wildlife (no bears, but mountain goats and lots of birds), mountains, forests, waterfalls… this stretch has it all. Everything I had been wanting to see… dreaming of experiencing… was coming true! I couldn’t help but smile and feel glad in having the privilege and opportunity to do this… even writing it doesn’t quite capture the wave of emotions. It was nothing short of incredible!

I lunched with another mother and son travel team… this time from Australia. They were from just outside of Brisbane, not too far from where my cousin is attending teacher’s college. They had travelled through California, Arizona, and Nevada and were making their way to Jasper before flying to the East coast. Quite laid back and good natured… we had an enjoyable lunch together.

Back to the dome car for more sites, a quick stop off in Jasper, and enjoying more narration from Jeremy… As we were running late, I was treated to another dinner aboard the Canadian. Prime Rib! Rose and another couple were my delightful companions this time… the train really does lend itself to meeting some great people. An hour and a half later and we were in Edmonton. Sarah and I exchanged good-byes and she gave me my set of post cards as a souvenir of my first real leg on the train. A quick ride into town to the University of Alberta where I am staying the night.

Tomorrow, I am going to Yellowknife for the Solstice Celebrations and National Aboriginal Day. I have never been North of 60 before and am quite interested to see what life is like in the NWT. Until then…

The Land of Golden Dreams… Whistler.

Backpack on back… and a crate of things I am no longer needing on its way back home, I boarded the bus to Whistler. The Sea to Sky highway normally takes about 2 to 2 1/2 hours to traverse. It lives true to its name as you climb a dramatic distance above sea level in a relatively short period of time (if you go fast up the hills, your ears will pop!). There is a great deal of traffic on the highway and with all of the 2010 construction, one can expect to spend anywhere between 2 1/2 to 5 hours on the road. Thankfully, it would only take me the former both ways. According to one local, I must have horseshoes where the sun don’t shine. Nevertheless, the drive is beautiful!

Unlike, its Olympic cousin Vancouver, where not everyone is excited about playing host to the world… Whistler is definitely embracing all things 2010. Flags are flying, event sites have signs out already, and there is definitely a buzz any time anyone mentions the Winter Olympiad to come. The village has extensive hosting experience – international snowboarding, freestyle skiing, and of course world cup downhill events have been a part of the Whistler event calendar for years. Summer sports are even starting to make their presence known.

It also is an area that well… is not in need of as much social infrastructure. Vancouver has a larger population and thus a greater need for things like roads, social services, affordable housing, etc., etc. Vancouver and its surrounding burrows also know that they will foot the brunt of the bill should things not go as planned economically. Whistlerites are seemingly not as concerned and appear confident that the Olympics will help them realize their own ‘golden’ dreams.

The village itself is quite modern but cannot help but be picturesque, and is full of high end retail, coffee shops, restaurants/pubs, a few night spots, hotels/resorts, realtors (big business in Whistler), and tour companies. There are lots of trails, bike paths, rivers/creeks, and trees with the mountains completing the landscape… and yes, you can still ski on the glaciers in the summer! For a village of maybe 5,000, it boasts all of the conveniences of a larger centre… Whistler even has its own local transit and a taxi company!  The feel of the place is trendy… there are a lot of rich and outwardly beautiful people in Whistler. And they come from all corners of the world… German, Dutch, Japanese, Russian, Arabic, French were all heard on the streets as I wandered through the village.

I enjoyed walking along the trails, hanging with the ‘beautiful’ people, and had a nice dinner at one of the local coffee shops (can’t go wrong with a vegetarian calzone and a coke). I can definitely see why a friend of our family and a teaching mentor of mine stayed out here for as long as she did working as a ski instructor before heading to the classroom full time. Nice place to hang your hat, that is for sure!
With several arms and neighbourhoods (Whistler Cay, Upper Village) which are more residential developments than anything, it is clear the Whistler is continuing to grow! I passed by a few schools, which served as a reminder that people actually LIVE here and that it is not just a winter wonderland/summer escape.

My accommodations, the “Golden Dreams B & B” turned out to be one of the best deals in Whistler. All of the rooms are themed – Victorian, Aztec, Southwestern (my room) – and are spacious retreats. The guest deck  is a nice place to sit and relax.  Ann greeted me at the door and was definitely the host with the most. She and her husband Ken have clearly but a lot of effort into making the place comfortable for all. Very friendly and knowledgeable as well! Golden Dreams is located in Whistler Cay on I kid you not, Easy Street.  It is only a 15 minute walk on the bike path into town and to be honest, I definitely appreciated having an escape from the Village centre.

After a chapter of my book, I wound down and hit the hay. The train from Vancouver to Edmonton awaits…:).

Dropping Anchor in Anchorage…

Well Seward (3 hours away really) but Seward just doesn’t work as well with my catchy title…;).  And the cruiselines all put Anchorage (Seward) in their brochures, as if they are just a stone’s throw away from each other. Unless you are a caber tosser on steroids, I don’t think you can throw a stone that far!!

Anyway, 6:30 a.m. and my disembarkation group is called. Time to walk the plank as it were… and get off the ship. I stopped to ponder why we all had to get off the ship at such an early hour… then it really hits you, they are kicking you out to get ready for the next load of passengers…;). Someone else would be resting their head in my stateroom, seeing an orca off the starboard side, eating dinner at MY table…;)., seeing Mendenhall Glacier come into full view, and sailing through the Misty Fjords. I know its cheesy, but a small part of you forgets that this place isn’t all yours… it is a shared realm of experience. I guess how you interact with it is unique but… many have come before and many more will come after. I thought this feeling only came when standing in a 400 year old building in an even older city or in the forests of Cathedral Grove, turns out Alaska – and when I think about it, it is obvious to see why – has the same effect folks. I say a quiet bon voyage to all who come next and board the coach bound for the airport…

Trying to be a good son, I call my parents. It is Father’s Day. Good to talk with them and get caught up on all the happenings… so interesting how life both stays familiar/stands still and moves forward when you are away.

The drive from Seward is, like all things in Alaska, very scenic. A good stretch of the area was devistated by the same Tsunami that hit Port Alberni in 1964. Some of the dead trees were ‘petrified’ by all of the water and salanization. Of course, the now seeming blaze (*kidding*) mountains, trees, water, wild flowers, etc. line our trail.

We arrive at the airport and are greeted by a perky representative from the cruise line. She tells us that our luggage will be waiting inside, but they will need an hour or so to sort it all out. Thankfully, I had some time before my flight otherwise, me thinks I would have been fubarred. It ended up taking 2 hours to get things organized. All of the luggage was piled and sorted in one holding area… which when ready was actually quite efficient. Not sure if it was an off day timing wise, but I know some folks had flights to catch before the luggage room was open for business. Assume they got their bags…;).

I took the time to get my boarding pass from the auto check-in, grab breakfast, and do a little reading. Stood in line with the500 other or so people wanting to drop their bags off and make their way to the plane. It always amazes me when an airline seems overwhelmed by the number of people, yet only has 2 desks open. What scheduling genius thinks this is a good idea… you know we are coming! So why not schedule it to accommodate the masses…;). And it always seems to be 20X worse at an American airport. Perhaps this is just a volume thing (A lot of Canadian airports – Pearson and Trudeau accepted – only have a few peek periods)… ugh… anyway, I made it to my gate by boarding time and don’t mind lines too much (just feel badly for those who do). Boarding, emergency presentation, and then it was up to the clouds on the way to Vancouver.

I cleared customs and made my way to the luggage pick-up. One bag came down… and well… the other didn’t. Waiting, looking around… a little bit of worry sets in… nah, I’m sure it will be here… ummm…. no. Alaska Airlines thankfully has a much more helpful baggage department than any I have ever encountered. They even give you a telephone number where a LIVE person picks up. Novel! More on the bag saga later…

My amazing aunt and uncle met me at the airport. We had dinner at their place which was very tasty and a great way to relax/ease my way back into life on the mainland…;). They dropped me off at UBC and I called the airline. Turns out that my bag was sent to Seattle. Thankfully, it would be back in Vancouver before I leave for Whistler in the morning. PHEW!

Off to bed… next stop Whistler!

Bad Blogger

Good morrow friends… Yes, it is true, I have been a bad blogger as of late.  Excuse = very spotty internet access over the last while.  Good News = lots of brand new posts for you documenting up until my last night on the Alaskan cruise (Saturday).  I just got off the train in Edmonton (travelling from Vancouver)… Wow, Wow, Wow!  I will have posts and new pictures up very soon!  I leave for Yellowknife very early in the morning and it has been a long travel day, so must sign-off for fear of incomprehensible blabberings soon to grace this computer screen.   Hope all is well in your respective necks of the universe… bye for now!!